We were eating more than I thought possible, including jellied whale casserole and fresh apricot buns, while Elizaveta Dobrieva’s family explained that their ancestors descended from the polar bear and the killer whale. Then Elizaveta disappeared into the back room of her apartment in Lavrentiya, Chukotka, and came back cradling a dark wooden carving. Its…
Since early 2015, I’ve been traveling to communities all over the Arctic with photographer Eric Guth. Our mission is to learn about the north from the people who live here. Across Iceland, Greenland, Nunavut, and Alaska, we ask the people we meet for recommendations about whom to meet next. Our job is to listen and to follow their lead, relying on chance…
I used to think of the Arctic as a wilderness. This is a common misconception for southerners like me. Ice, tundra, polar bears, that kind of thing. I had traveled north…
Most winters, there’s an iceberg that freezes into the sea ice near the town of Pond Inlet, in Nunavut, at the northern tip of Baffin Island.
It was at that iceberg…
The Bering Land Bridge National Preserve represents a much larger story of relationships between different Arctic people and how the north was settled. Though the landscape looks much different now than during the last…
As shipping patterns change, one town plans to join the emerging supply chain. “Meet the North,” a series that ventures into the lives of some of the 4 million people who call the Arctic home, explores an industrial future in a quiet corner of Iceland…
Hockey is popular all over this country, but places like Pond Inlet, at the northern tip of Baffin Island in the Canadian Arctic, are most often associated—for a southern audience at least—with hunting, snowmobiles, and seal meat. Not with the…
I first met the Arctic through its rivers. I was a canoe tripper and travelled from the south, like many others, in search of rugged landscapes far away from people. At the time…
Pond Inlet, Nunavut, is an Inuit town of 1,600 people at the northern tip of Baffin Island. It’s 650km north…
Amid a mega tourism boom in Iceland – where travellers now outnumber locals four to one – most people skip the northeast corner. When we asked a local in the whale-watching town of Husavik, Iceland, about driving around the Melrakkaslétta peninsula, the answer was clear…